How to hang wallpaper without visible seams.

Wallpaper seams usually show because the wall or adhesive dried unevenly, the first drop was not vertical, an edge was stretched or the rolls did not match. Good hanging begins with the label: pattern repeat, batch number, adhesive type and whether paste goes on the wall or paper.

Check the rolls before cutting

• Confirm every roll has the same batch or shade number.
• Inspect for damage and compare colour in daylight.
• Read the pattern repeat and whether the match is straight, offset or free.
• Use the adhesive recommended for the wallcovering and substrate.
• Confirm whether the product is paste-the-wall or paste-the-paper.

Do not assume unused rolls can be returned once cut. Calculate the number of full drops, allow for pattern matching and keep roll labels until the room is finished. Our wallpaper calculator can help with a first estimate, but pattern repeat and wastage still need to be allowed for.

Make the wall consistent

Strip loose paper, remove paste residue where required, repair defects and sand smooth. A very porous wall can pull moisture from adhesive before the seam settles; a sealed glossy wall may prevent normal drying. Use only the primer, sealer or sizing method specified for the paper and adhesive. Lining paper can improve an uneven background but cannot bridge active cracks or damp. If the wall needs more than local preparation, see how to prepare walls for painting.

Set out from a true vertical line

Room corners are rarely plumb. Measure slightly less than one roll width from the intended starting point, then draw a light vertical line with a level or plumb tool. Plan where narrow strips will fall, especially beside windows, chimney breasts and focal walls. Avoid leaving a tiny sliver where possible. On a feature wall, the balance of the first and final drops matters as much as the pattern match in the middle.

Hanging the first drops

1. 1
   Cut and identify the drop.

   Allow trimming at top and bottom and mark its top lightly on the back.

2. 2
   Apply adhesive evenly.

   For pasted paper, cover the edges and observe the stated soaking time for every drop. For paste-the-wall paper, coat a little wider than the drop without letting the edge area dry.

3. 3
   Align the first edge.

   Match it to the vertical guide, leaving trimming allowance at the ceiling.

4. 4
   Smooth from the centre out.

   Use the tool recommended for that paper. Remove air without polishing, stretching or crushing texture.

5. 5
   Trim with support.

   Crease gently, support the edge with a broad guide and use a fresh blade frequently.

6. 6
   Butt the next drop.

   Bring the edge into contact without overlap. Match the pattern at eye level first, then smooth outwards.

7. 7
   Clean as you go.

   Remove paste from the face, ceiling and trim using the manufacturer’s method before it dries.

Corners, sockets and awkward points

Do not wrap a full-width drop around an out-of-plumb internal corner. Take the paper around by a small amount, re-establish a vertical line on the next wall and overlap or splice only as the paper instructions permit. Isolate electricity before working around sockets. Loosen faceplates only if competent, keep adhesive away from wiring and never paper over ventilation openings.

Why seams open or become dark

Open seams can result from too little paste at the edge, inconsistent soaking, stretching during positioning, excessive heat or a highly absorbent wall. Dark edges may be the paper backing showing, adhesive staining or a shade difference between batches. Once paper has dried and shrunk, pushing it closed rarely gives an invisible permanent repair; identify the cause before attempting seam adhesive or replacing a drop.

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