How to remove wallpaper and prepare the wall for paint.

It is tempting to dig harder when wallpaper will not come off, but damaged plaster takes longer to put right than stubborn paper takes to soften. Work in small sections, keep moisture away from electrical fittings and check what is underneath as you go. Older rooms may have several layers of paper and paint, each needing a slightly different approach.

Work out what type of paper you have

Try lifting a corner dry. Some strippable non-woven papers come away in complete lengths. Paper-backed vinyl often peels in two stages: the vinyl face first, then the backing. Traditional paper may need soaking from the start. If a painted or washable face stops water getting through, gentle scoring can help, but do not cut into the plaster or plasterboard. Check the paper’s removal instructions if you still have the label.

Protect and isolate

Protect the floor from both water and scrapings. Keep water and steam out of sockets, switches and light fittings; covering them is not a reason to soak the area. Where work requires electrical isolation or removal of a faceplate, have someone competent isolate and verify the circuit. If you cannot do that safely, get an electrician’s help and leave the fitting alone.

Remove the paper a section at a time

1. 1
   Test dry removal.

   Pull slowly at a low angle. Remove peelable face material without tearing the wall surface.

2. 2
   Wet a small section.

   Apply warm water or the specified stripper, allowing time to penetrate. Reapply rather than reaching for force immediately.

3. 3
   Scrape at a shallow angle.

   Use a broad scraper and stop if it digs into plaster or the paper face of plasterboard.

4. 4
   Work top to bottom.

   Keep the active area wet while avoiding uncontrolled runs down the wall.

5. 5
   Remove paste residue.

   Wash with clean water or suitable remover, changing cloths and water often. Rinse as required.

6. 6
   Let the wall dry.

   When the wall is dry, check it with light shining across the surface. Remaining paste may show as shiny patches or feel tacky when dampened; repeat the cleaning where needed.

Should you use a wallpaper steamer?

A steamer can help with stubborn paper, but the heat and moisture can damage weak plaster or plasterboard facing. Test a small area first and follow the machine’s instructions for how long to hold the plate against the wall. Do not leave it in one place for longer than directed. Stop if the surface softens, cracks or starts coming away. Steam and hot water can scald, and must be kept away from electrical fittings.

Prepare for paint

Once the wall is dry, inspect it with light shining across it. Wash off adhesive rather than trying to sand it away. Remove loose material and repair gouges. Torn plasterboard facing may need a suitable sealer before filling so it does not bubble when wet products are applied. Where traces of paste remain after thorough cleaning, use a sealer specifically approved for adhesive residue and the intended paint. Follow its preparation and drying instructions, then test a small area before decorating the whole wall. For the wider sequence, see how to prepare walls for painting.

Several layers of paper

Older rooms can contain lining paper, decorative paper and later paint in the same build-up. Remove one layer at a time rather than soaking everything until the wall is saturated. If a large patch will not release and the plaster starts coming away with it, stop. Let the area dry and test a different method in a small patch. Loose plaster or badly torn plasterboard may need a decorator or plasterer to assess the repair before you continue.

Wallpaper-removal FAQs