How to paint an interior door smoothly.

The area around a handle is often greasy even when the rest of the door looks clean. Old runs and chipped edges can also show through a new coat. Prepare those areas first, then work steadily and check beneath mouldings as you go. Adding a thicker coat is more likely to leave runs than hide poor preparation.

On or off the hinges?

Leaving the door hanging gives access to both faces and avoids storage, but the lower edge is harder to reach. Removing it gives a stable horizontal surface and better access to edges, but requires safe handling, space and careful rehanging. Fire doors, closers and heavy doors need particular care; do not alter labels, seals or hardware that affects their performance.

Prepare the door

• Remove handles and latch furniture where practical, keeping parts labelled.
• Clean hand areas and profiles before sanding.
• Check whether old paint may contain lead before scraping or sanding; get competent advice if suspected. Otherwise remove loose paint and smooth the edges of chips without gouging the door.
• Fill damage with a suitable wood-repair product.
• Where the new paint system requires sanding, dull the shiny faces, edges and mouldings evenly.
• Prime exposed material with the product it needs. Use an undercoat where the finish system specifies one; some finishes are self-undercoating on suitable prepared surfaces.

If the existing finish is hard and shiny, see how to paint over gloss before choosing the next coat.

Panelled-door order

1. 1
   Deep mouldings and panel edges.

   Brush paint into profiles, then remove any pooled material.

2. 2
   Panels.

   Coat the recessed faces, finishing with light strokes in the grain direction where the door has a visible timber grain.

3. 3
   Horizontal rails.

   Paint horizontal sections, keeping joins neat.

4. 4
   Vertical stiles (uprights).

   Finish the upright sections from top to bottom with light strokes.

5. 5
   Edges and hardware.

   Paint exposed edges where the door manufacturer requires it, keeping coats even. Do not coat hinges, latch mechanisms, seals or identification labels.

6. 6
   Inspect both sides.

   Runs often creep around the far edge or collect beneath mouldings.

For a flush door, work in manageable vertical sections. Spread the paint evenly, then finish with light strokes along the face while the paint is still workable.

Brush, roller or both?

A suitable mini roller can cover flat areas, while a brush reaches mouldings and edges. Choose the roller and brush for the paint you are using: not every foam or short-pile sleeve leaves the same finish with every product. If brushing out roller texture, do it while the paint is still workable. Once it starts to drag, leave it alone. Heavy coats on closing edges can make a door stick.

Gloss, satin or eggshell?

Choose a finish suitable for the door material and the existing coating. Gloss reflects more light; satin and eggshell are less shiny, but neither hides a ridge in filler. Check the paint’s preparation, recoat and drying instructions. Touch-dry paint can still be soft. Avoid closing the door tightly against fresh paint, and allow the stated hardening time before cleaning or normal wear.

Plan the two faces

If the door stays hung, plan how to reach each face and edge without leaning against wet paint. Keep it safely held open while working, and avoid fresh paint touching the frame. If the frame is being painted too, plan the drying stages before starting. Never prop a fire door open in a way that compromises fire safety; get advice if you cannot keep it in service while decorating.

Door-painting FAQs