Doors collect hand grease, polish, chips and thick paint at panel edges. They also sit vertically, so an apparently perfect coat can form runs underneath a moulding after you move on. A calm sequence and frequent checks make a bigger difference than simply loading on more paint.
On or off the hinges?
Leaving the door hanging gives access to both faces and avoids storage, but the lower edge is harder to reach. Removing it gives a stable horizontal surface and better access to edges, but requires safe handling, space and careful rehanging. Fire doors, closers and heavy doors need particular care; do not alter labels, seals or hardware that affects their performance.
Prepare the door
- Remove handles and latch furniture where practical, keeping parts labelled.
- Clean hand areas and profiles before sanding.
- Scrape loose coating and feather chips.
- Fill damage with a suitable wood-repair product.
- Abrade every shiny face, edge and moulding evenly.
- Prime bare areas and use a compatible undercoat system.
If the existing finish is hard and shiny, see how to paint over gloss before choosing the next coat.
Panelled-door order
- 1Deep mouldings and panel edges.
Brush paint into profiles, then remove any pooled material.
- 2Panels.
Coat the recessed faces and lay them off in their grain direction.
- 3Middle rails.
Paint horizontal sections, keeping joins neat.
- 4Vertical stiles.
Finish long members from top to bottom with light strokes.
- 5Edges and hardware.
Keep paint away from hinges and latch mechanisms, and keep closing edges thin.
- 6Inspect both sides.
Runs often creep around the far edge or collect beneath mouldings.
For a flush door, divide the face mentally into manageable vertical sections. Spread paint evenly, then lay off full-height where the product and drying time allow.
Brush, roller or both?
A fine foam or short-pile mini roller can apply a consistent film on flat faces; a brush reaches profiles and can lay off edges. The combination works well when both tools leave a compatible texture. Do not over-roll paint that has started to tack. Repeated heavy coats can also make a door bind, especially at closing edges.
Gloss, satin or eggshell?
Choose a paint rated for interior woodwork. Gloss is highly reflective and exposes preparation; satin and eggshell are lower sheen but still show ridges in side light. Durability, cleanability, colour and compatibility with the old system matter more than fashion. Allow the full cure time before judging the finish or closing the door against fresh paint.
Plan the two faces
If the door stays hung, paint the less-visible face first so you can learn how the product flows, then complete the main face without repeatedly brushing around the edge. Keep the door secured so it cannot swing into a wet frame. If both door and frame are being painted, stagger the work so fresh faces are not pressed together.
Check beneath mouldings, around the latch edge and along the lower corners before the paint begins to set. Removing a run while it is wet is easier than sanding a hardened one later.
Door-painting FAQs
Should I remove an interior door before painting it?
It depends on the door, space and access. Leaving it hung avoids rehanging, while removing it gives better access to edges and a stable surface. Heavy doors, fire doors and closers need particular care.
Should I paint the top and bottom of a door?
Follow the door manufacturer’s requirements, especially for external and fire doors. Do not seal ventilation gaps or interfere with identification marks.
How do I stop brush marks?
Use the right brush, do not overwork drying paint, maintain a sensible film thickness and lightly de-nib between coats when permitted.